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Jewelry materials

Jewelry that doesn’t turn green: what the metals actually mean

“Waterproof” and “tarnish-free” depend on what a piece is made of. Here is what each term on Kremage means, and which brands use it. The water claims are the brands’ own, and the brand’s care card is the final word.

  • Solid gold (10k, 14k, 18k): gold all the way through. It doesn’t plate off or turn skin green.
  • Gold-filled: a thick layer of gold bonded to a base metal (by US rule, at least 1/20 of the weight is gold). Lasts years with care.
  • Gold vermeil: sterling silver plated with gold of at least 10k and 2.5 microns thick (the US definition). Thicker than standard plating; the gold can still wear over time.
  • Gold-plated: a thin layer of gold over a base metal. The most affordable, and the plating can wear with water, sweat and lotions.
  • Stainless steel with PVD coating: a hard, bonded gold-colored coating on stainless steel. This is what most brands mean by “waterproof” jewelry.
  • Titanium: light and nickel-free, often chosen for sensitive ears.

Who uses what here

Oh Clementine: stainless steel and titanium with 18K gold PVD coating; the brand describes its pieces as waterproof and tarnish-free. Brook & Bloom: 18K gold vermeil and 18K gold-plated stainless steel, which the brand describes as waterproof and hypoallergenic. Nolia Jewelry: 14k gold-filled and sterling silver. Karma and Luck: materials vary by piece, so check each listing.

Sensitive ears: titanium, surgical steel and nickel

Many reactions are to nickel (DermNet). Implant-grade titanium (ASTM F136) is the metal most often recommended for very sensitive ears. Surgical stainless steel (316L) contains a small amount of nickel; it’s tightly bound, but it can still bother some people. Gold-plated and PVD-coated pieces can wear through to the metal underneath.

On Kremage, most of Oh Clementine’s huggie hoops are 316L stainless steel with an 18K gold PVD coating, not titanium; each listing names its metal. Brook & Bloom describes its vermeil earrings as nickel-free.

What wears jewelry out, and the care that helps

  • Soap, shampoo and lotion leave a film and wear coatings; chlorine and salt water are hardest on plating, vermeil and silver.
  • Sweat, perfume and hair spray dull and tarnish metals; friction wears thin coatings first.
  • Take pieces off for swimming, hot tubs and workouts, and put them on after perfume and lotion.
  • If a piece gets wet, rinse it with plain water and dry it with a soft cloth. Store pieces dry and apart.

Gold-filled must be marked with its karat under US FTC rules. Nolia Jewelry offers many pieces in 14k gold-filled or sterling silver.

Definitions follow the US FTC Jewelry Guides. Brand material statements are taken from their product pages.

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